Trans Africa - Complete

I left Africa a few days ago, after spending the last 10 months there. It has been fun, educational, informative and eye-opening. I’m going to miss the continent. It has always been, and still is, my favorite continent.

Most of my current trip through Africa was on an Overland Truck (i.e. cook groups and camping) but I did manage to include few three-to-four star hotels here and there in the larger Africa cities along the way. For me, “overlanding” is a great way to experience the rural spaces between the large cities and provides exposure to the smaller communities, not just large cities. One can miss a lot of local culture by flying in and out of countries. Even though I do it all the time. And did it on this trip. I flew in and out of: Mozambique, Burundi, Djibouti and South Sudan.

As you would expect, I'm always asked "what were your favorite countries"? My "personal" favorites are: 1) The Gambia (I liked the people a lot. They were somewhat aggressive towards tourist, but in a friendly, humorous way.); 2) Ghana (It reminded me of how Kenya was in 1985. The tourist attractions were a bit “unfinessed”, but I liked that.); 3) South Africa (I’ve been to Johannesburg and Cape Town before. I expanded by exposure of the country this time by traveling from Kruger to Port Elizabeth. It was absolutely amazing - mountains, vistas, beaches, game parks, diversity of people, etc.); 5) Mozambique (scuba diving, coastline and beaches) and 6) Kenya (Not only this visit, but previous visits combined, has made me fond of Kenya. e.g. Taking the overnight train to Mombassa. Returning for my friend’s wedding, etc.). These are my personal favorites, not universal favorites.

In general Africa has been good to me. A number of the countries I visited are designated “orange” (Mauritania, Sudan, Burundi) or “red” (South Sudan) by the US State Department, but I never felt unsafe in any of them. Other than getting scammed at an ATM in South Africa - they got my card information, but no money - and my iPhone pick pocketed in Ethiopia, I had no major issues. Both of the incidents were due to me feeling a little too at ease and letting down my guard. Many African countries have a history of corruption, but I did not experience it. I was asked a few times very casually by officials for “donations, but I would say “no” and that was that. I felt less safe in Nairobi, Kenya and Johannesburg, South Africa (immediately post-apartheid) in the 90’s than any place I visited in 2017-18. The places I’ve visited previously in Africa during the ‘90s have certainly improved, expect for Zimbabwe.

Overall it was a great trip. I got to traveled with some amazing people, made some friends, but also met and traveled with a few duds. On this trip, I visited 34 countries (5 of which I’ve visited previously) on mainland Africa. I’ve visited 2 additional counties, Egypt and Malawi, on prior trips. I expect that some day I’ll visit the balance of 11 countries*. All of which are located in North Africa (except one), but I don’t want to rush visit them. Eventually I’ll get there, in due time. I also would like to return to the DRC to raft down the Congo River, but perhaps not until after the recent outbreaks of Ebola is resolved.

 *Wish list: Mali, Burkina Faso, Niger, Central African Republic, Chad, Algeria, Tunisia, Liberia, Libya, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Somalia

Last Bush Camp

My last “bush” camp! I’m officially off the truck and heading back to US for a short visit, before head to Asia and the South Pacific.

Bye Tent

Bye Truck

Stefano giving away his $$$.

Toilet stop on the way back to Khartoum

Interior of Toilets 

When I got back to Khartoum, I gorged on Middle Eastern Food!

Meroë Pyramids

Did you know there were pyramids in Sudan? The Kingdom of Kush which housed the city of Meroë represents one early state located within the middle Nile region. It is one of the earliest and most impressive states found south of the Sahara.  The one sight that is seen by almost all of Sudan’s few visitors. Although they were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011, these ancient structures have remained so far a hidden treasure. No mass tourism here.

Khartoum Museum

After seeming this museum, I was a little disappointed that I was leaving the truck in Khartoum (after  visiting the Meroe pyramids) and not traveling with the truck to the Egypt border.  Originally the truck was planning on taking the quick, but more boring route.  Then later it decide to take the more interesting route along the Nile.  Base on my understanding from this museum there was a lot of ancient civilizations that existed along the Nile.  There might be some interesting sites to visit and see, then again Sudan doesn't put much effort into tourism, so the site might be underwhelming. 

Souq Khartoum

Based on the number of souq, medina, market picture sequences I've taken on my travels, it probably clear that I thoroughly enjoy them. Heading into Sudan from Ethiopia, it was clear we were heading back into Northern/Islamic Africa.  It was also clear the Sudanese people - even in Khartoum - their largest city-  don't see many tourist.  The people were extremely friendly and accommodating towards us.  Unlike Ethiopia were the locals were always begging or scamming for money or gifts.  

Khartoum Mall

Typically, me included, travelers to Africa take pictures of the exotic or poverty. But there is a wealthy and middle class that lives in Africa. Many of them frequent the shopping malls in the large cities. This mall in Sudan, is fairly typical of an African Mall.

Semien Mountains - Gelada “Baboon”

There was a three day hiking option, but participating in it, would have meant not visiting Axum. Instead we organized a one-day trip, basically to hike a bit, but mostly to see the gelada “baboons”. Gelada “baboons” are a species of Old World monkey only found in the Ethiopian Highlands, with the largest population in the Semien Mountains.

 Gelada are not actually baboons, but members of their own genus. When we arrived at the mountains, the weather was extremely cloudy. We tried hiking, but we couldn’t see anything, when we reached a vista. All we could see was clouds. After spending an hour with the geladas we decided to call it quits, plus one of our group member wasn’t feeling well, so we decided to head back to the hotel. At least we achieved our primary goal – see the Gelada.

 On our way back to town a roadblock delayed us. The head of Ethiopia’s largest dam project was killed the day before. The roadblock prohibited the cars from entering the town where protests and demonstrations were occurring.

Ethiopian Cooking Class - Gondar

Definitely one of the best activities in Ethiopia I participate and it only cost $25. We learned how to make 4 traditional Ethiopian dishes from basic ingredients and roast coffee. Afterwards, we feasted on the food and sampled the roasted coffee after the host conducted a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony.

 What I was most interested was how they made the injeria and I learned and also made some. The teef batter is fermented for 3 days, and then poured on an injeria cooker. It cooks in about 3 minutes, after which it can be peeled off, cooled and eaten.

Gonder

I was definitely not impressed with Gonder.  We stayed in the town to allow side trips to Siemen Mountains to hike and Axum to visit the ancient ruins.  Stefano and I took a look around, but we didn't come across anything special.  The old castle looked like someone visited Europe memorized the design and built a similar on in Gonder. 

The best description of the city " It’s not what Gonder is, but what Gonder was that’s so enthralling." Maybe back in the day it was enthralling, but not today.